‘Spuds, Onions and a Treacle Tin With the Lid Off’

Jimmy ‘Banjo’ MacKenzie sat in his wooden humpy at the back of the hotel in Gwalia. He was proud that in the incredible mess that was his kitchen everything was electric. That meant a lightbulb and a can opener. In another room was a fridge and an air-conditioner. The electricity for the small luxuries was donated by the managers of the local mine, Sons of Gwalia. Even with the air-conditioner on an old thermometer was recording 45°. Crouching as he did on a chair, with his knees under his chin, he proclaimed everything he needed was within easy reach. When … Continue reading ‘Spuds, Onions and a Treacle Tin With the Lid Off’

“Camel in the Dam”

© Roger Garwood 2025 “Hey, Boss, quick, we got camel in the dam!” “Tiger, don’t call me Boss.” “No, Boss.” It was difficult. I was a ‘whitefella’ managing a ‘blackfella’ community in the mid ‘90s and reversing a 200 year old programme of brainwashing was a formidable battle.  I was working for these people, they were my boss – spinifex people who were removed from Maralinga where atomic weapons were tested between 1952 and 1963.  The community of Coonnana is 200 kilometres east of the gold mining centre of Kalgoorlie in Western Australia.  Driving dangerously fast on the dusty track … Continue reading “Camel in the Dam”

Breakfast With A Hummingbird

There are things money cannot buy. We have no real idea what they are but sometimes they nudge you when they’re least expected.  Travelling light on a small budget with no plans other than to enjoy sunshine, fresh air and cold beer, not necessarily in that order, leaves many doors open for aimless travellers. Booking a cheap flight at random can be fun. It’s how I discovered Marco Inn, a small hotel with eight rooms – four up, four down and less than a minute’s walk from the town’s beach if you take your time.  Marco’s is dead centre in … Continue reading Breakfast With A Hummingbird

Fish Head Curry and Cheesecake

George Town is an aged British colonial outpost isolated on Malaysia’s Penang Island, a far eastern port which competed as a trading centre with Singapore and Hong Kong. I hadn’t intended to go to Penang but a colleague mentioned a Chinese chef known for concocting fish head curry. The temptation was strong bait so I changed plans and headed to the Island’s Chinese jetties.  True to form the town is crumbling around the edges while developers peck at properties ripe for development. Meantime the old Empire’s character is embedded in the architecture of George Town’s hub where more than 450 restaurants … Continue reading Fish Head Curry and Cheesecake

A Balinese Funeral

A Balinese funeral is a unique combination of the spirituality of Buddhist and Hindu rites which celebrate a person’s time on Earth and, importantly, their transition to a life after death. Various elements of the funeral ceremony are spaced out over seven days. At one point relatives of the deceased walk around the funeral pyre carrying offerings and pictures of relatives. Tourists will be aware of the funeral ‘season’ on the tropical island by the visible presence of massive bamboo towers which will convey a body to a cremation. But these prominent structures are for wealthy Balinese. In most villages and … Continue reading A Balinese Funeral

Nothing Beats Lunch With a Few Mates

To prove the point I had lunch with a few professional photographers a couple of weeks back. During a rare quiet moment between drinks and tall stories among the shooters one colleague, Mike Wearne, gave me a copy of the French Photo magazine which he’d bought it in Canada. The magazine was a blast from the past. I hadn’t seen this edition but it had a 10-12 page spread of the work Trish Ainslie and I did for our first book Off Like Flies which illustrated the lifestyle of Australian prospectors. The magazine, published in 1990, was an indication of … Continue reading Nothing Beats Lunch With a Few Mates

Messing Around in Boats (and Laundry)

I’ve read The Wind in the Willows too many times and the net result is I love messing around in and on boats and water anywhere. Thus I wound up wandering around a small fishing village, Teluk Bahang, on the north west corner of Penang Island off the west coast of the Malay peninsula.  I’d spent a couple of hours schlepping around jetties and colourful wooden boats, inhaling fishy smells, making friends with scabby dogs and slick cats while exchanging laughs with sinewy boat crews as I tripped over heaps of nets, ropes and unfathomable tackle. Narrow tidal creeks were bordered … Continue reading Messing Around in Boats (and Laundry)

… ’til The Cows Come Home

I’ve known him for years but have no idea of his name. We sit and chat and don’t understand a single word of each others’ language. But Cowman as I refer to him in my mind spends his life tending to his small herd, four of them and, currently two calves. His cows live in a small homemade shed propped up beside the pathway which leads to a local beach. Most mornings I try to take a few bananas to feed the ‘Daisies’, skin-on is their preference. I call them all Daisy and they are the healthiest cows I’ve seen. … Continue reading … ’til The Cows Come Home